May 2010 New Zealand Trip Report Part 2 Queenstown, Te Anau, and Milford Sound Back to Part 1 May 8th Sat We wake up to no rain in Fox Glacier but it has been replaced with fog so our rescheduled helihikes are cancelled yet again. We decide to leave Fox Glacier and head towards Queenstown where it looks like the weather is quite nice. Sure enough, the weather improves as we descend down from Fox Glacier into a valley. The drive is very pretty, reminds me a bit of the Tetons in the United States. I spot some wild Yellow Crowned Parakeets in the woods along the road when we stop to take a short hike. As we enter the mountains near Queenstown we see lots of road bikers either blasting down the hills or huffing and puffing back up to the top. We even see a man wearing a motorcycle helmet zooming down the steep road on a skateboard. The Queenstown area is vibrant with fall colors. This place transforms into a ski town in the winter but there is no sign of snow yet. We pull into the long gravel driveway of The Milestone (http://www.themilestone.co.nz ), probably the nicest Bed & Breakfast we will stay at. The owner Betty and her friendly dalmatian Domino greets us. Our cottage is very nice, set among 3 acres of fruit trees, beehives, and even a working water wheel. Betty is a great host and is also a licensed marriage celebrant. After figuring out how to set up the Milestone's infant portable cot, we go into town (about a 10 min drive from the Milestone) and ride the Skyline Gondola up to the top of Bob's Peak. We are dismayed to see that the luge is closed for renovations as we skipped the one in Rotorua thinking this one would be an option. Bungee operator A.J. Hackett has another jump set up here called "The Ledge" and we watch people scream as they fling themselves into the abyss. After walking around Queenstown for a bit (it is similar to a Colorado ski town such as Aspen), we drive into the charming Arrowtown. Arrowtown is an old gold mining town, and many of it's historic buildings are still in use. Down by the Arrow river was where many scenes from Lord of the Rings were filmed. We have dinner at the kid friendly Red Tractor Cafe. I get a rocket/pear salad and an unusual but tasty veggie pizza (that included potatoes and pumpkin!). Also try the local Speight's beer. Nice scenery between Fox Glacier and Queenstown, NZ Waterfall somewhere between Fox Glacier and Queenstown, NZ A pair of Paradise Ducks seen somewhere between Fox Glacier and Queenstown, NZ West Coast beach somewhere between Fox Glacier and Queenstown, NZ. Sandflies not pictured. NSFW photo of a Fantail seen somewhere between Fox Glacier and Queenstown, NZ Female Tomtit somewhere between Fox Glacier and Queenstown, NZ. Sandflies not pictured. Gondola up to the top of Queenstown, NZ. Domino, the resident dog of the Milestone B & B in Queenstown, NZ. May 9th Sunday Milestone owner Betty cooks us a huge breakfast. Anything left over goes to her dog Dom. We head out to A.J. Hackett Kawarau Bridge so I can attempt my first ever bungee jump. The observation deck at the bridge is packed full of tourists and I wonder if there will be a long line to jump but it turns out that 99% of the people are just there to watch. I weigh in (they have you fill out a form called a "toe tag") and then get rigged up on the bridge. They attach a harness around my body and then have me sit down and secure my ankles together. My ankles are cushioned with a towel and then to the bungee cord. Metal music blares on a boom box as the operators check that I'm ready to. There are no refunds or transfers if you chicken out. I'm lead to the jumping platform and asked to put my toes over the edge, then pose for the cameras. After a short pause I leap into air. You can hear the spectators gasp. It is very weird feeling as your body is telling you this is insane, yet you know (or assume) no harm will be done to your person. The bounces after the first drop are really fun. When I finally stop bouncing I'm lowered down to a waiting raft and disconnected. Curiously I meet an bungee employee from my home town back in the States who was laid off from his corporate job and decided to live in New Zealand for a while. I'm presented with a cheesy certificate and t-shirt as proof I jumped before we leave the bungee jump. You can also purchase photos or videos of your jump. Our next stop is a short and pretty drive to the Shotover River as we have pre-booked two (so we can take turns watching the baby) jet boat rides. I realize I should have dressed a bit warmer when most of the other passengers are wisely wearing wool caps. While is hot on the shore once the jet boat picks up speed it gets quite chilly. While the Shotover Jet operator provides you with a poncho, I'd recommend also wearing a hooded raincoat cause if you have an outside seat as I got soaking wet. The driver pilots the craft at insane speeds and veers into the canyon walls before pulling away at the last minute. When he spins his finger in a 360 degree motion, the boat is spun around in a dizzying circle. Great fun and very nice natural scenery too. We pass a lost sheep in the road on the way back, the drive back to the Milestone is very picturesque. I get some good take out food from Arrowtown Pesto (Italian food) for dinner that evening. View from the bridge at A.J. Hackett Kawarau Bridge, Queenstown, New Zealand Jumping above the river at the A.J. Hackett Kawarau Bridge, Queenstown, New Zealand Jumping above the river at the A.J. Hackett Kawarau Bridge, Queenstown, New Zealand Video of the my jump at the A.J. Hackett Kawarau Bridge, Queenstown, New Zealand Jetboat zipping off to the canyons on the Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand Spinning the jetboat around on the Shotover River, Queenstown, New Zealand May 10th Monday Today is an action packed day. We drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy. Some travelers have said this is a prettier drive than the famous Milford Sound drive. It is a quite remarkable 45 min drive. The town Glenorchy is very tiny and we only have time to do a short hike around the Glenorchy Lagoon before heading to the "Aerodome" to meet Rob, a mustached and barefooted sky diver instructor. I sign up for the 45 second freefall skydive option from 12,00 feet. Rob shows me how we will be attached together and gives me a funny helmet and glasses to wear. We cram into a tiny plane with a few other employees who will skydiving for fun. The views out the plane window are spectacular, mountains as far as you can see. We can see Mt. Cook and Rob says lots of "Lord of the Rings" was filmed below us. When it is time to jump, I lean out of the plane, shape myself like a banana and hold onto my straps. Then Rob pushes both of us out. The experience of freefall is a very strange feeling, but you are so high in the air you don't have your body warning you like it does during a bungee jump. I put my hands up in the "stick em up" position as we fall through the New Zealand sky. Rob has us do some spins in the air. The wind really rushes against your face during the 45 seconds of freefall. Thankfully the chute opens and the parachute descent is quite pleasant, Rob even lets me steer for a bit. Landing involves lifting your legs up and sliding into grass on your butt. Great fun. Glen Orchy, New Zealand With Rob, Skydive Instructor Extraordinaire at the Aerodome, Glen Orchy, New Zealand Slowly drifting down over Glen Orchy, New Zealand From Glenorchy we drive back to Queenstown and have the GPS guide us to Coronet Peak so my wife can do some paragliding while I observe from the ground. I watch as they spiral down over the landing field. She gives the experience a thumbs up even though she is usually afraid of heights. The operator even has a digital camera attached to a stick so you will have some photos of your flight. Pretake off from Coronet Peak, Queenstown, New Zealand Paragliding over Queenstown, New Zealand. As if today wasn't action packed enough, I decide to sign up for an evening jump at A.J. Hackett's The Ledge. I take the gondola up to the top and wait behind a few folks before it is my turn. A 10 year old Indian girl is coached by her mom to jump and takes a tentative step off into the void. This type of jump is different from Kawarau Bridge in that you are attached at the waist and can get a running start as your feet are unrestrained. Great fun, and the views of Queenstown below are fabulous. This would probably be a better first jump for someone that is nervous going into it. After the jump I get some food for dinner to go from Sombreros in downtown Queenstown, I enjoy their lime flavored chips and bean tacos. Sunset on the A.J. Hackett Ledge Bungee Jump (note weight marking on hand), Queenstown, New Zealand Jumping off The Ledge high over Queenstown, New Zealand May 11th Tues Today our plan is do the short drive from Queenstown to Te Anau. Before hitting the road, we do a short hike in Arrowtown along the Arrow river and then have a fabulous lunch at Amistead Bistro and Winery, the best meal of the trip. They have a great outside patio and lovely locally sourced food. We sample fresh salad with pumpkin and feta, fried cheese and tomato, brussel sprouts, salmon, and brochette. We also do the wine tasting and pick up a very nice bottle of Pinot Noir for later. We head towards Te Anau (another very pretty drive of course, these are becoming routine). Once in Te Anau (another very small rural town), we stay in a cottage on a farm called Blue Mountain, there are even little piglets behind our cottage. My wife does the glowworm cave tour while I stay behind and babysit. She says it is an o.k. tour but hers was marred by some Koreans that brought their infant. That baby screamed when they entered the dark cave and didn't stop until they left. So parents please don't bring your young kids on this tour! Lunch on the patio at Amisfield Bistro and Winery, Queenstown, New Zealand Wine tasting room at Amisfield Bistro and Winery, Queenstown, New Zealand Lake Hayes just before Arrowtown, New Zealand I could handle living in this little cottage in Arrowtown, New Zealand May 12th Weds From Te Anau we set out to do the famous Milford Sound Drive. The guide book recommend doing this on a full tank of gas since they are no services out there but I only use a quarter of tank so that advice is probably overkill. At Homer Tunnel we get our first look at the crafty Kea parrots. These mountain birds are very intelligent and known to chew rubber off car windows for fun or snatch passports out of luggage. So be wary around them! It appears that the fleets of tour buses arrive here around noon from Queenstown so I'm glad we got an early start and beat them. The weather is overcast and rainy which seems appropriate for this dramatically moody area. Back in Te Anau we have a rather tasteless lunch at Olive Cafe and then do a short hike around Lake Te Anau. The forests near the lake look like someone dropped a million hanging fern baskets down on the ground. We play with the friendly resident dogs at Blue Mountain. They get spooked when I pull my camera out though. Kea near Homer Tunnel, Milford Sound, New Zealand Paradise Ducks at Milford Sound, New Zealand Camera shy dog at Blue Mountain Cottages, Te Anau, New Zealand On to Part 3 Doubtful Sound, Queenstown Trip Report Index