Sept 2009 Grand Canyon/Zion/Bryce Trip Report Back to Part 1 Grand Canyon Part 2 Zion National Park It is a short drive to Zion National Park from the Grand Canyon and we enter through the East Entrance. We pull over the car to admire the Checkerboard Mesa (a sandstone formation with large horizontal cross-bedding in the rock). All of the rock formations along the road are interesting to look at. At the narrow Mount Carmel tunnel (completed in 1930, note that bicycles and pedestrians are prohibited) we have to wait a bit for an RV to pass through as the Park Service has to temporarily close down one lane to allow it to fit. On the other side of tunnel the landscape is quite different, large reddish mountains loam around us with the Virgin River running down the middle. We were unable to get a room at the only hotel inside the park (The Zion Lodge), but our backup choice (Flannigan's Inn) is right outside the entrance. Our room is really nice with a flat screen TV, DVD player, couch, and balcony overlooking the pool. We have dinner outside at Flannigan's Inn's Spotted Dog restaurant. On their patio hummingbirds battle for control of the nectar in the feeders. We start with hummus and I get the pasta, washing it down with a Polygamy Porter (their motto is "Why just have one?"). That afternoon we hop on the free shuttle across the street from Flannigan's Inn to the park and do a loop of Zion Canyon Road to get an overview of the park layout. The bus prerecorded narration points out sights of interest such as Three Patriarchs, Great White Throne, and Angels Landing. Three Patriarchs at Zion National Park, Utah Sept 16 Weds Today is another "take it easy" day. We do the buffet breakfast at Flannigan's, I get the hash brown and oatmeal with interesting tiny blueberries. We take the free shuttle again and visit the Emerald Pools Trail (named after the green tint of the algae filled pools along the trail). As we arrived late (around 10am), these trails are really crowded. There are chains blocking access to the cliff drop-offs as people have fallen to their deaths here. By noon the shuttle bus is really crowded too. We go back to town to eat lunch at a forgettable Mexican joint (most of the good food options in Springdale seem to only be open for dinner). In the afternoon we drive out to Kolob Canyons, nice views here and it is not very crowded. On the way back we stop at the very tasty Zion Pizza and Noodle and sit on the outside deck. One pizza is way too big for one person to eat so share if you dine here. I rent a bike from the bike shop next to Zion Pizza and ride into the park as the sun sets. The ride up Zion Canyon Road is amazing, much better views from a bike compared to riding on the shuttle. There is very little car traffic as access to the road is restricted to buses and cars driving straight to the hotel. The buses follow a strange rule that they cannot pass a moving bicycle so pull over if you hear a bus behind you. This is by far the best bike ride I've ever done. Kolob Canyon @ Zion National Park, Utah Amazing bike ride through Zion National Park, Utah Sept 17 Thurs We get a bit of a late start waking up and getting over to the Narrows Outfitters. At the store we are required to watch a video on river etiquette (how to do #2 in a bag) and then size up our gear (river shoes, neoprene socks, walking staff, and a waterproof dry bag). We get on the shuttle and take it to the last stop: Riverwalk Trail. This mile long trail is quite pretty and worth checking out even if you do not hike the Narrows. At the end of trail we start wading into the water, it is not as cold as I thought it would be. The rented river staff is quite indispensable for traversing over slippery rocks and feeling how deep the water is. The river is not crowded at all on our way out so we pretty much have the river to ourselves. The narrow section they call "Wall St." is awe inspiring to see. The rapids are a bit tricky to cross as the rocks have been worn smooth but we complete the loop without falling once. On the way back we see tons of walkers coming up the river (remember, an early start is key!). Ideally this hike should be started at 6:45am (the first shuttle departure time). Hiking the Narrows in Zion National Park, Utah Hiking the Narrows in Zion National Park, Utah Hiking the Narrows in Zion National Park, Utah Hiking the Narrows in Zion National Park, Utah After a fabulous day of hiking the river, we have an outside meal at the Bit and Spur (Southwestern food) in Springdale. Sit on the back deck next to a man-made waterfall and hummingbird feeder. My burrito is pretty good. I do another sundown bike ride through Zion. Pull over my bike to look up at the scary heights of Angels Landing, I will be hiking this intimating trail tomorrow morning. Yet another amazing bike ride through Zion National Park, Utah Sept 18 Fri Today we are determined to be among the first folks on the popular 5 mile Angels Landing trail (one of the most famous hikes in the world) so we wake up at 5:30am and get on the 6:45am shuttle (the first one that runs in Sept). Only one other person gets out at the Angels Landing stop and we also see someone above us on the trail (the advantage of staying at the Zion Lodge is that you are not dependent on taking the Shuttle bus to the trails). We pass through the narrow Refrigerator Canyon where if you stomp your feet there is a loud echo. We ascend the engineering marvel of Walter's Wriggles (A series of switchbacks named after the first superintendent of Zion) and get the fearsome last half mile of the trail. At this point the ascent to Angels Landings begins with a series of chains attached to a narrow sandstone ridge that you climb over with shear drop-offs on either side. My wife doesn't like heights and decides to stay behind as I continue to the peak. The views on the summit are great, you can see the bus stop far below. Best of all I have to the top all to myself due to our early departure. On the way back I pass a few tentative climbers who are turning around before completing the last section of the trail(one man says it is too windy, another chap says he doesn't want to keep his girlfriend waiting). We see a ton of folks coming up the trail as we descend so I'm very glad we had an early start. We get to watch large tarantula crossing the trail on the way down. Nice views from the top of Angels Landing (if you are not scared of heights) at Zion National Park, Utah View of Zion Canyon Road road from the top of Angels Landing at Zion National Park, Utah View of Zion Lodge far below from the top of Angels Landing at Zion National Park, Utah Exploring a crevice in Refrigerator Canyon along the Angels Landing trail at Zion National Park, Utah Tarantula crawling along the Angels Landing trail at Zion National Park, Utah Next stop is Bryce Canyon! On to Part 3 Bryce National Park Trip Report Index