May 2005 Kenya/Tanzania, Africa Trip Report


Part 3 Masai Mara


The Masai Mara is a large park reserve in south-western Kenya. It joins with the Serengeti National Park game reserve in Tanzania. Named for the Maasai people and the Mara River which divides it, it is famous for its exceptional population of game. If you watch Animal Planet I'm sure you've seen the famous scenes of the wildebeest trying to cross the crocodile-infested river. We see a stunning sight as we enter the park, seven lions appear lined-up perfectly against the side of the road watching us. The guide tells us they are a family of sisters and aunts. They pass our van and ease on down the road, we note how skinny they are and it may be because the Great Migration has not occurred yet in this park (most of the animals are still in Tanzania where we will see them later in the trip.)

Seven lions pose for the camera in Masai Mara, Kenya


The Mara Serena Safari Lodge is completely over the top: a bizarre collection of bright yellow domed huts with a view of the plains that is to die for. We have the usual Indian lunch that these lodges like to serve and then go for an afternoon game drive. See the interesting colored Topi, watch some lions that think about stalking some Cape Buffalo. Some Thompson Gazelle get quite alarmed watching this. As we return to the lodge we see a Hyena slinking through the tall grass.

Topi in Masai Mara, Kenya


Back at the lodge we chat with some of our fellow travelers. Mike, Lee, and Gina (three young Americans in our group) have decided to do the hot air balloon ride over the Mara. We had a hard time deciding whether to join them, but decide that $400 U.S. per person for a 60 minute ride is too expensive. Of course they rave about how great it was afterwards so maybe we should have splurged.

Crowned Crane in Masai Mara, Kenya


May 26th Thurs
Get up @ 6am and do a quick check of my email in the lounge to make sure everything is o.k. back at home/work. No problems so far. On our morning game drive we see a pair of Jackals running down the road (they are almost always seen in pairs). We see also find some Egyptian Geese, a Black Kite, a Secretary Bird, and an old lone male Elephant. My wife finds it sad that he is elderly and by himself.

Lonely Elephant in Masai Mara, Kenya


We watch some lions stalk some Topi, it is fascinating to watch their teamwork as one slinks to the left, the other to the right. The hunt is not successful and our guide notes that only about 15% result in kills. We visit the Mara River and are lucky to catch a Hippo out of the water grazing. He seems very irritated that we are watching him, I think he feels vulnerable out of his natural element (the water). Behind him the rest of the pod is loudly playing in the river. The guide tells us if you are ever chased by a hippo you should run and jump over a log as hippos can't jump. Next to the mosquito, the hippopotamus is probably most dangerous creature in Africa. Make sure you never get between one and the water!

Angry Hippo in Masai Mara, Kenya


Lion on termite mound in Masai Mara, Kenya


Kori Bustard in Masai Mara, Kenya


Later that day we do an optional ($9) nature hike with a Masai guide named Livingstone. He shows us some of the traditional plants they use for medicine and tells me that he has had malaria many times. He takes us to the mysterious elephant graveyard and shows us a Rock Hyrax. Back at the lodge we relax by the swimming pool. There is a high powered telescope there and you can actually see the hippos splashing around in the Mara River with it.

The Rock Hyrax is closely related to the Elephant, believe it or not


On the wet evening drive we see a young Hyena hiding by the side of the road, the guide says its mother will probably come back for it soon. See some male Lions lounging around and some Hippos yawning in the river. At dinner Mike shows me the new Canon Rebel camera he bought for the trip along with 4 lenses. Some of the photos he took appear on this website (thanks Mike!).

May 27th FRI
Time to leave the Masai Mara. Our driver takes a wrong turn out of the park and ends up in a muddy bog that is almost impossible to drive through. He has to call for help and get towed out. The border crossing is very chaotic with trucks and people running everywhere. Kids offer us nuts for sale and roll tire rims for fun (or maybe photo opportunities for a bit of cash). We get our passports stamped and meet our Tanzanian driver named Benjamin. He works for Leopard Tours and they use the Land Cruiser which is much more comfortable than the van we drove around Kenya in. He was worried about us as we were so late arriving due to our muddy detour in Kenya.

Our Land Cruiser in Tanzania


Tanzania seems much more rural then Kenya as we pass by the thatched huts and cool rock formations. We stop at a gas station and the woman attendant is dressed to the nines looking like a business executive. Soon we arrive at the gates of the fabled Serengeti.

On to Part 4 Serengeti, Tanzania


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