May 2005 Kenya/Tanzania, Africa Trip Report
Part 4 Serengeti, Tanzania
The Serengeti ecosystem is located in north-western Tanzania and hosts the largest and longest overland migration in the world. Over a million wildebeest and about 200,000 zebras flow south from the northern hills to the southern plains for the short rains every October and November. So strong is the instinct to move that no drought, lion or crocodile-infested river can keep them back.
Very happy to be in the Serengeti, Tanzania
After entering the park, I spot the somewhat rare Bat-eared Fox. We see an Elephant that may have been the victims of poachers as the end of his trunk is missing. There is a dead Wildebeest with a lion resting nearby, you can hear the lion purring. This kill will probably feed him for many days as he seems to be alone.
Yummy snack for a lion in the Serengeti, Tanzania
Around the corner we come across thousands and thousands of migrating Wildebeest. The noise of their bullfrog-like grunts is overwhelming. Seeing this is something no camera can capture adequately.
Some of the thousands of Wildebeest we saw in Tanzania
The driver has to speed up to get to the lodge before nightfall (no night drives are permitted in the park) and bellhops scramble to get our luggage out of the car at the Serengeti Sopa Lodge. This place seems to have a 1980's decor thing going on. At night we can hear the Wildebeest calling from outside our window as they march on in the darkness. Incredible!
The staff at dinner were very interested in seeing the latest American cellphones at the Serengeti Sopa Lodge, Tanzania
May 28th Sat
We get up and have breakfast on the outdoor deck overlooking the plains, a spectacular setting. English tea really hits the spot here.
Breakfast @ Serengeti Sopa Lodge Serengeti, Tanzania
On the morning drive I spot some Honey Badger in the distance. The driver tells us these tiny creatures are very aggressive and can kill a man by ripping open his groin area. Ouch.
We see a pride of Lions walking across the plains. A female marks the grass and one of the males sniff it, then grimaces. Their cubs are very fat and happy, quite the contrast from the skinny lions we saw in Mara. The abundance of game here really makes a difference.
Male Lion @ Serengeti, Tanzania
We come across two Cheetah brothers hanging out on a termite mound. I like the way the markings on their face makes it look like they are crying.
Cheetah check out the view @ Serengeti, Tanzania
There are vultures everywhere following the migration and when they find a kill they nosily squabble over it. Marabou Stork stand behind them looking like creepy undertakers. Every tree you see seems to be full of vultures.
Vultures and Marabou Storks keep the plains clean @ Serengeti, Tanzania
We break for lunch at the visitor’s center. Part of the boardwalk is closed here because a family of lions is resting on it. I pick up a cool 1970's-looking Tanzania t-shirt with a pair of lions on it at the gift shop in tribute.
Detail of a shirt you could also get at the Serengeti gift shop in Serengeti, Tanzania
The sea of Wildebeest seems to never end. It is also the rutting season so we watch as the males defend their tiny 1/6 acre territory from any intruders. Quite a few heads are butted in anger. The newly born youngsters leap around in joy. We see our 2nd leopard of the trip, it is relaxing in a tree. We also get very, very close to a family of Elephants.
This leopard was relaxing in a tree @ Serengeti, Tanzania
This Elephant got very close to our car @ Serengeti, Tanzania
Back @ the Wildebeest kill, we watch as a Jackal steals some meat right under the nearby lion's nose. The lion watches but does nothing, he must be extremely full. Back at the lodge we find that sitting on the veranda is almost as nice as a game drive as we see Waterbuck, Impala, Giraffe, and other game pass by as the sun sets over the mountains. Quite the arresting sight. After dinner Mike, Lee, Gina, and I use flashlights to try and see the Wildebeest in the dark but see nothing. We can still hear them calling all night though.
Waterbuck @ Serengeti, Tanzania
May 29th Sunday
We drive to meet the rest of the folks in our group that took the $400 balloon ride over the Serengeti. Driving to the rendezvous spot we pass a long straight line of Wildebeest, stretching all the way across the horizon.
Our car as thousands of wildebeest pass in front in a straight line @ Serengeti, Tanzania
Talking to the balloon folks it sounds like it was disappointing as they didn't see much wildlife. I guess the Mara ride was the better choice as the folks who did that one raved about it. The pickup point is at the Serengeti Serena Lodge and walking around the grounds it seems like a nicer lodge than the Sopa one we are staying at. Mongoose scamper around the driveway.
Mongoose scamper around the grounds of the Serengeti Serena Lodge @ Serengeti, Tanzania
Mongoose @ Serengeti Serena Lodge Serengeti, Tanzania
We leave the Serengeti (sniff, it was really great being here) and head towards the Olduvai Gorge. Pass through some rugged country, see a few local folks tending to their cattle.
A glimse out the Land Cruiser window in Tanzania
This area is commonly referred to as "The Cradle of Mankind" as it is where excavation work was pioneered by Louis and Mary Leakey in the 1950s. A pop culture reference is that Olduvai is the location of the first monolith in Arthur C. Clarke's "2001: A Space Odyssey" book.
The museum here has replicas of ancient footprints and some interesting skulls and bones. Some vendors are selling spears outside the museum but I'm not sure if they are airline security approved.
Inside the museum @ Olduvai Gorge, Tanzania
If you need a spear you came to the right place, seen @ Olduvai Gorge, Tanzania
The famous Olduvai Gorge in Tanzania
After a short visit here we head up into Ngorongoro Crater.
On to Part 5 Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania
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